As temperatures drop and frost creeps across the paddock, it’s natural to wonder whether your horse is comfortable out there. We project our own experience of cold onto them—we’re shivering the first time it gets down to 40°F, so surely they must be freezing too?
The reality is more nuanced, and understanding how horses experience cold weather can save you from over-blanketing, under-feeding, or simply worrying when there’s no need.
Quick answer: Do horses actually get cold?
Yes, horses do get cold—but at much lower temperatures than most of us expect. Their bodies are remarkably well-designed for handling cold temperatures, and a healthy horse with a natural coat can tolerate conditions that would have us reaching for thermal layers.
Here’s what you need to know:
Most adult horses with a full winter coat remain comfortable between about 5–18°C (40–65°F) when they’re dry and sheltered from wind
Healthy horses in good body condition often cope well with temperatures down to 0°C (32°F) and below, provided they have plenty of forage available and access to shelter
The thermoneutral zone for horses spans roughly 5–25°C (41–77°F)—far broader than our human comfort range of around 21°C
Age, breed, body condition, clipping status, and weather conditions (wet and windy versus dry and calm) dramatically change how cold a horse feels
A horse’s individual circumstances matter more than the number on the thermometer
The goal isn’t to prevent your horse from ever feeling cool air—it’s to ensure they can stay warm through their natural systems or, when needed, with appropriate support from you.
How horses stay warm naturally in winter
Horses evolved as grazing animals in open, often cold climates across the steppes of Central Asia. Their bodies are genuinely designed to conserve heat efficiently, and when we understand these systems, we can work with them rather than against them.
The winter coat: As temperature drops, horses grow longer, denser hair over 10–21 days per 18°F decrement. This hair coat stands up through piloerection, creating a layer of warm air close to the skin that acts like natural insulation
Body condition as a buffer: Subcutaneous fat provides both insulation and energy reserves. Horses with a body condition score of 5–6 on a 9-point scale have enough “winterization” to handle cold well—ribs should be palpable but not visible
Hindgut fermentation: When horses digest forage (hay and pasture), bacterial activity in the cecum and colon produces substantial internal heat. This is why uninhibited access to hay is one of the most effective ways to help your horse stay warm. (Article on the best hay to feed in the winter.)
Vasoconstriction: Blood vessels in the extremities constrict to shunt blood flow toward the core, preserving body heat where it matters most
Behavioral adaptations: Horses seek sheltered spots, turn their hindquarters to wind, huddle with herd mates, and adjust their position throughout the day to manage heat loss
Shivering: When other mechanisms aren’t enough, rapid muscle contractions generate heat—though persistent shivering signals that the horse needs additional support
In many temperate climates—typical UK winters or US Midwest conditions down to around -5°C (23°F)—these natural systems are usually sufficient for a healthy, unclipped horse with shelter access and constant forage.
When do horses start to feel cold? (Temperatures and thresholds)
The “thermoneutral zone” is the ambient temperature range where a horse can maintain body temperature without expending extra energy. For most horses with a natural winter coat, this zone spans roughly 5–25°C (41–77°F).
Below the lower end of this zone, horses begin working harder to keep warm—and that’s where the concept of lower critical temperature becomes useful.
Lower critical temperature (LCT) is the point below which a horse must increase energy expenditure to prevent hypothermia. For cold-acclimated horses with full coats and free-choice hay, this is often around -8°C (18°F) or lower
Research shows significant breed variation: Standardbreds acclimated to 15–20°C show an LCT of 5°C (41°F), while Quarter Horses adapted to harsh winters can have an LCT as low as -11°C (12°F)
Wind chill matters enormously—a 20-30 mph wind can effectively lower the temperature your horse experiences by 18-27°F
Moisture is the enemy: A wet horse loses insulation rapidly because water conducts heat away from the body. Wet coats can reduce insulating capacity by up to 80%
Simple rules of thumb:
Dry + out of the wind = tolerates colder temperatures
Wet + windy = feels cold much sooner
Clipped horses, very lean horses, and older horses start needing support at higher temperatures, often around 5–10°C (41–50°F)
When the temperature drops below your horse’s individual critical temperature, energy demands increase by roughly 1% for every 1.8 degrees Fahrenheit—potentially requiring a 25% overall increase in winter feed.
Factors that affect how cold a horse gets
“It depends on the individual horse” might sound like a cop-out answer, but it’s genuinely true. Two horses standing in the same field can have vastly different cold tolerance based on these factors:
Coat type and clipping:
A horse with a thick winter coat has natural insulation equivalent to a medium-weight blanket
Clipping removes this protection, raising the lower critical temperature to around 15°C (59°F)
Even a trace clip or partial clip significantly reduces the horse’s ability to trap warm air close to the skin
Age:
Young horses and foals have less body mass and fat reserves to maintain warmth
Very young horses may prefer blankets at temperatures adult horses handle easily
Older horses (roughly 18–20+ years) often have less efficient thermoregulation and reduced fat stores
Body condition:
Thin horses with a BCS under 4/9 lack the subcutaneous fat that provides insulation and energy reserves
“Poor Keepers” who struggle to maintain weight need earlier intervention with rugs and extra feed
A horse comfortable at -5°C when in good condition might struggle at 5°C when underweight
Breed and type:
Fine-coated types (Thoroughbreds, some warmbloods, Arabs) may have a short coat even in winter and feel cold sooner
Individual variation within breeds can be significant
Health status:
Chronic illness, metabolic disease, or recent weight loss all reduce cold tolerance
Horses recovering from surgery or illness need extra consideration
Cushing’s disease can cause abnormal coat growth that looks insulating but may not function properly
Environmental factors:
Continuous shelter access versus occasional shelter
Herd size—horses in groups can share body heat
Natural windbreaks from trees, hedges, or terrain
Field drainage and ground conditions
Signs your horse is too cold
Trusting what you observe on your horse matters more than the number on the thermometer. Different horses show cold stress differently, but here are the key signs to watch for:
Behavioral signs:
Shivering (occasional shivering can be normal; prolonged shivering indicates cold stress)
Reluctance to move or seeming “stuck” in one spot
Hunched posture with back rounded and tail clamped down
Turning hindquarters persistently toward the wind
Standing separate from the herd in a sheltered corner
Physical clues:
Cold ears and cold extremities on the lower legs
Tight, tense muscles along the back and quarters
A coat that feels cold and flat rather than fluffy and lofted
The hair coat lies flat instead of standing up to trap warm air
Subtle changes:
Reduced appetite or less enthusiasm for feed
Dull expression or seeming withdrawn
Seeking shelter more persistently than herd mates
Decreased water intake
Serious red flags requiring immediate action:
Prolonged, uncontrollable shivering
Severe lethargy or stumbling
Very low rectal temperature (below 37°C/98.6°F)
Gums that appear pale, grey, or bluish
Inability to rise or stand
Quick hands-on check: Slide your hand under the blanket (if wearing one) or into the armpit/girth area. This spot should feel warm—not cold, and not sweaty. If it’s cold, your horse needs more help. If it’s damp with sweat, you may need to take the blanket off.
Do horses need blankets? How to decide when to rug
Here’s the thing about blanketing—it should be based on the horse standing in front of you, not on what other horses at the yard are wearing. Some horses genuinely need rugs to remain comfortable; others do better without them.
When a healthy, unclipped horse with shelter usually doesn’t need a blanket:
Dry conditions with light wind
Temperatures above about 0–5°C (32–41°F)
Good body condition and access to ad-lib forage
The horse’s coat is fluffy and lofted, not flat and wet
Situations where a rug is often appropriate:
Horse Type | When to Consider Rugging |
|---|---|
Fully clipped horses in work | Below about 10–15°C (50–59°F), depending on clip |
Underweight horses (BCS <4) | Below about 5–10°C (41–50°F) |
Seniors (18+ years) | When the temperature drops significantly or in wet weather |
Very young horses | Earlier than adults, especially if lacking shelter |
Horses recovering from illness | Based on vet guidance and observation |
Horses in persistent wet conditions | When their natural coat cannot dry between rain |
Rug weight guidelines:
Lightweight sheet: For rain protection without significant warmth, or clipped horses in mild weather
Medium-weight rug: For most blanketing needs in moderate cold
Heavyweight rug: For extreme cold, clipped horses, or those needing extra help
The over-rugging problem:
Sweating under rugs causes discomfort and can lead to skin conditions
Chronic over-rugging prevents the natural coat from doing its job
A horse that’s too warm may actually lose condition trying to cool down
Over-rug rather than under-rug is a common mistake born from good intentions
Essential practices:
Check your horse’s blanket daily—remove it to assess skin condition and adjust weight
Reassess whenever the weather forecast changes significantly
Watch for rubs, especially at the shoulders and withers
Remember that daytime and nighttime temperatures often require different approaches
Before you reach for the blankets, start with forage and shelter, then add rugs only when the individual horse shows they need more help keeping warm.
Feeding and water: helping horses stay warm from the inside out
Rugs and shelter get a lot of attention, but feed and water management are often more important for keeping your horse warm through winter. Internal heat production is the foundation on which everything else builds. (We go into a deep dive on that here.)
Forage drives heat production:
Hindgut fermentation of hay generates significant body heat
More hay equals more fermentation equals more internal warmth
This effect becomes especially important below about 0°C (32°F)
Free access to hay can make the difference between a comfortable horse and one that’s cold
Energy requirements increase in cold:
Below the lower critical temperature, a horse requires roughly 1% more dietary energy for every 1.8 degree Fahrenheit drop
This can translate to a 25% overall increase in energy needs during harsh winter weather
For a 1,100lb horse, this might mean an additional 1.1 - 2.2lbs of fat-supplemented forage daily
Consult an equine nutritionist if you’re unsure about your horse’s individual requirements
Winter water needs:
Factor | Guideline |
|---|---|
Daily intake | 10–12 gallons (38–45 liters) for average adult horse |
Temperature preference | Horses often drink more from water around 7–18°C (45–65°F) |
Cold water risk | Horses may reduce intake from very cold or icy water |
Impaction colic risk | Decreased water intake combined with dry hay increases the risk |
Practical water strategies:
Use heated buckets or troughs where possible
Break and remove ice at least twice daily if heating isn’t available
Provide warm water after exercise in cold conditions
Monitor intake—reduced drinking is a warning sign
Additional winter feeding tips:
Offer loose salt or salt blocks to encourage drinking
Check body condition monthly—thick winter coats can hide gradual weight loss that sneaks up on you
Increase hay before increasing concentrates to maximize heat production
Make feed changes gradually to avoid digestive upset
Fresh water availability is non-negotiable. Dehydration in winter is a real risk and a leading contributor to impaction colic.
Providing shelter and managing the winter environment
Here’s something that surprises many horse owners: protection from wind and wet weather is often more important than the absolute air temperature. A horse that’s dry and out of the wind can tolerate temperatures that would cause real cold stress if they were wet and exposed.
Ideal shelter setups:
Three-sided field shelters with the open side away from prevailing wind
Well-ventilated stables (adequate shelter doesn’t mean sealed tight—air quality matters for respiratory health)
Natural shelter from trees, hedges, and terrain features
Multiple shelter options in larger fields so all horses can access protection
Space guidelines for group shelters:
Number of Horses | Minimum Shelter Area |
|---|---|
2 horses | ~240 sq ft (22 sq m) |
Each additional horse | +100 sq ft (9 sq m) |
Horses need enough room to move and avoid conflict. A shelter that’s too small may leave subordinate horses standing outside in cold and wet weather because they can’t enter safely.
Paddock and yard management:
Address ice promptly—frozen ground and icy patches increase injury risk
Manage deep mud around gateways and feeding areas to prevent mud fever and cracked skin
Consider sand or gravel in high-traffic areas for improved traction
Designate paths that stay more passable in wet conditions
Ground conditions matter for warmth:
Horses lying on cold, wet ground lose body heat rapidly
Dry standing and lying areas help horses conserve energy
Muddy patches around shelters defeat the purpose of having shelter
Good drainage is worth investing in before winter arrives
Winter storm preparation:
Check fencing after severe weather—freeze-thaw cycles can loosen posts
Ensure gates don’t freeze shut
Have a plan for extreme weather events
Know where your horses will shelter before you need to find them in a storm
Cold-weather health issues to watch for
Cold and wet conditions don’t just make horses uncomfortable—they change the health risks you need to monitor. Being proactive about these issues saves suffering and veterinary bills.
Skin conditions:
Mud fever develops on the lower legs from prolonged exposure to wet, muddy conditions. The same bacteria that cause mud fever thrive when skin stays damp and abraded. Check muddy legs daily, dry them when possible, and address early signs before they worsen
Rain scald appears along the back and quarters when the coat stays wet for extended periods. Over-rugging with an inadequate drying process between rug changes can contribute
Cracked skin from repeated wetting and drying cycles creates entry points for infection
Prevention includes good drainage, preventing prolonged exposure to wet conditions, and careful drying when horses come in wet
Respiratory concerns:
Poor barn ventilation during long stabling periods increases ammonia and dust exposure
Air quality matters more than warmth—a well-ventilated stable is healthier than a sealed one
Dusty hay and bedding become more problematic when horses spend more time inside
A horse’s respiratory health can suffer from too much stabling, even with good intentions
Digestive risks:
Impaction colic risk increases with decreased water intake and higher dry-matter diets
Horses eating more hay and drinking less water is a dangerous combination
Monitor manure output—smaller, drier droppings are a warning sign
Consider adding soaked feeds or warm water to mashes
Hoof care:
Hoof growth slows in winter, but trimming schedules should continue
Frozen ground can cause bruising, especially in horses with thin soles
Snowballing in shod horses creates dangerous packed ice under the foot
Wet-dry cycles can affect hoof quality and wall integrity
General monitoring:
Maintain regular farrier and veterinary schedules through winter
Don’t dismiss changes in behavior, reduced appetite, or reluctance to move as “just the cold weather”
Contact your vet promptly when something seems off—early intervention prevents escalation
Daily winter checklist for your horse
Consistent daily observation is your best tool for keeping your horse comfortable and healthy through winter. This doesn’t need to take long, but it needs to happen every day.
Environmental checks:
[ ] Water supply unfrozen and clean
[ ] Hay available (replenish as needed for free access)
[ ] Shelter in good condition, accessible to all horses
[ ] Footing safe in paddocks and gateways (check for ice, deep mud)
[ ] Fencing intact after weather events
Hands-on horse check:
[ ] Feel under rug or into armpit/girth area—should be warm, not cold or sweaty
[ ] Run hands over body condition—can you feel ribs appropriately?
[ ] Check skin for rubs, lesions, or early signs of rain scald
[ ] Inspect legs for mud fever signs, heat, or swelling
[ ] Look at the horse’s neck and quarters for any changes
Behavioral observation:
[ ] Interest in feed—eating with normal enthusiasm?
[ ] Moving freely with the herd or standing isolated?
[ ] Any shivering, stiffness, or reluctance to walk?
[ ] Normal expression or dull and withdrawn?
[ ] Drinking normally?
Adjust based on conditions:
[ ] Check weather forecast and plan rug changes accordingly
[ ] Increase hay if extreme cold is coming
[ ] Adjust turnout schedule for weather conditions
[ ] Wear reflective clothing if you’re handling horses in low light (winter evenings and mornings)
The goal is catching small changes before they become big problems. A horse that seems slightly “off” today might be developing a health issue that’s easier to address now than in three days.
Winter care isn’t about doing what everyone else does—it’s about reading your horse and responding to what they actually need. Most horses handle cold far better than we give them credit for, provided they have the basics: adequate shelter from wind and wet, free access to forage, fresh water that isn’t frozen solid, and an owner who checks on them daily.
The 1% approach applies here too. You don’t need to revolutionize your winter management overnight. Small, consistent actions—checking water twice daily, feeling under that rug, noticing when something seems different—stack up into excellent care over the colder months.